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Sky blue satin waistcoat with embroidered edges and Pipa jin

Collection Info

  • TimesQing Dynasty
  • dimensionsLength: 75cm; width: 74cm

Connection profile

Pipa jin (front part of a garment) refers to the right lapel of a front garment lacking a piece on the lower hem. Normally the front is slightly narrower than the right lapel. Jin’s edge is visible from the front side, and the left lapel is extended. This waistcoat has a stand-up collar with a collar support; in the front middle there is a big Ru-yi cloud head design with its edge embroidered. There are four button knots, and the opening is right in the middle. Decorations mainly include big wide three-layer embroidered edges, of which the middle layer is the most important, with gradient stitched flower and butterfly patterns against cyan satin background. The design depicts a vivid and beautiful scene where there are yulan (magnolia denudate), magnolia kobus, malus spectabilis and peonies, with butterflies flying around. The inner layer is a piece of white silk weaving lace; and the outer is a layer of brocade cutting edge with woven patterns of golden threads. These three layers are all the decorations that this waistcoat has. It is of the design that used to be popular since Xianfeng and Tongzhi Period in Qing Dynasty. As recorded in Xunsu Tiao written by Jiangsu Government Office at that time, “embroidering edges of costumes can be quite expensive; there are various edge designs like white-flag edge, golden and white rail design, peony ribbon, gold-wrapped threading, etc. The price of a garment is supposed to be fixed; however, if its edges are embroidered, the price will double. Moreover, the embroidered edges can account for up to 40% of the price, while only the rest 60% is for the clothing itself.” It indicates the expensiveness and popularity of this kind of embroidered border design, which can be seen in the pipa jin herein.

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